The relative calm and quietness of Kilmainham Lane in Dublin 8 is home to a rare gem. This is one of those kind of places that there are seemingly all too few of these days. No shiny chrome fixtures (except maybe for the bar taps), no glaring lights, marble bar tops or anything else you’d associate with the multitude of soulless city center ‘bars’, this is a place of character. No larger than many of the living rooms in the adjacent apartments, it’s packed to the gills every weekend with the locals you just have to assume have been coming here since they could see over the bar.
If you’re lucky and you’re early, you might be awarded with a spot in the utterly fantastic dimly lit snug at the bottom of the stairs. The snug has the benefit of being both close to the bar and being close to the toilet. I’m not too sure I want to find out how many pints of the superbly delivered Guinness I need to drink before traveling arse over tit down the stairs after spending a night drinking in the main bar.
Speaking of the tipple, the Guinness (which admittedly is the only thing I’ve ever ordered) is among if not the best pint of Guinness I’ve ever had. It makes it not only drinkable, but highly enjoyable. High praise indeed, given my history of praising Murphy’s and barely giving any others a look in. The bar staff are friendly without being overly so but always have a few words of conversation for you if you make the effort.
Eoin, who may have complained if I didn’t include this, was in awe of the miniature shower system in the toilet which provides steamy hot water for scrubbing your mucky paws. I believe the comment was along the lines of “you just don’t see that anymore”. No, you don’t. But you could say that about most, if not all of this place. It’s a very welcome step back in time. A place where you can go not to be deafened by a blaring stereo or the musical strains of whatever performer was cheap and available. A place to go to practice the forgotten art of conversation over a few pints. A place that’s around the corner from a Chinese takeaway!
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